Right Half Roundup – Cumberland Falls, KY
May 28 – June 11, 2011
Right Half Roundup: June 3-5: Annual Gathering of the ACE 750 ~ Rat Bastard Pack.
This yearly gathering takes place somewhere “right” of the Mississippi River. This year, it will be at Cumberland Falls, KY. I plan to stop in West Virginia to visit the cemetery where my Dad and grandparents are buried and to explore the area for a few days. I’ll also be visiting family and friends in Cincinnati.
Friday, May 27
I spent the evening doing laundry and some housekeeping. I’m pretty much set for the trip. Tomorrow morning, I’ll drop Dusty off at BB&B. He’s like Norm from Cheers—everyone knows his name. I’ll miss him. He keeps me almost sane. After that, I’ll be ready to roll. I had to do some last-minute re-mapping since my original route across the Mississippi may be closed due to flooding. The route from here to West Virginia will be mostly secondary roads, many of which I haven’t traveled before. My only real schedule is to be in Kentucky by the following Friday, leaving plenty of room for spontaneity.
Saturday, May 28
Odometer Reading: 82,080 miles
Miles Traveled: 490
After weeks of bad weather in the direction I’m heading, the forecast looks good now. I hope it stays that way—not just for me but for everyone affected by the storms. It was a nice day; although I didn’t make great progress, that’s often the case when taking back roads. I found some nice routes along the way, and traffic wasn’t bad for a holiday weekend. I stopped for the night at a decent hotel in Hot Springs Village, a little north of Hot Springs. I hoped to find something cheaper, but I was tired and needed rest.
Sunday, May 29
Miles Traveled: 403
Today was really enjoyable despite traveling even fewer miles. The roads were fantastic, especially the twisty sections on Scenic 7. While I’ve explored the northern parts of this amazing road before, this southern stretch was a treat.
I spent the entire day on twisty roads and enjoyable sweepers. By 4 PM, my rear was telling me to stop, and I listened. I checked into Pear Tree Inn in Sikeston, Missouri. I enjoyed some evening beers and planned to hit the hot tub and pool. With one last check for road closures around the Mississippi, I noticed I’ll have to take a 100-mile detour on the interstate since most secondary roads that cross the river are still closed.
Monday, May 30
Miles Traveled: 545
Happy Memorial Day/Decoration Day! I had hoped to reach West Virginia today to visit the cemetery, but that didn’t happen; I’ll get there tomorrow.
It was a long day. I grabbed breakfast from the hotel and hit the road before 7 AM. I traveled through Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky, Ohio (oops, wrong turn), back to Kentucky, and finally, West Virginia. I’m staying the night in Huntington, WV. The Mississippi River is a mess—the water begins about half a mile before the actual banks. On the Illinois side, it was even worse, seemingly going on for about two miles. Parts of the interstate felt like a causeway, with water on both sides, reaching as high as 10 feet from the road. Kentucky was beautiful all day, though I only encountered a few miles of really fun roads. I’ve traveled this route before, but Lexington is stunningly gorgeous.
Tuesday, May 31
Miles Traveled: 175
Today was a lazy day. I slept in a bit and took my time leaving the hotel. I combined back roads and highways to reach Sutton. Even the interstate here has some scenic and curvy sections. I checked into the very old-school Elk Motor Court, which was already old when I was in high school back in the ’70s. At $35 per night (tax included), it’s just as clean as places where I’ve paid 2-3 times more.
Once settled in, I didn’t do much—just rode around a little, grabbed some bananas, yogurt, and beer for the fridge (the three main food groups, right?). I washed the bike not because it was particularly dirty, but because a couple of beers leaked in the saddlebag and started to smell when they burned on the exhaust. I’ll need to discuss this with the guys at Southern Star—cans should travel better than bottles! Thankfully, my Real Ale and St. Arnold bottles survived intact (they’re necessary for the upcoming Rat Bastard Craft Beer Exchange). It’s surprising how little has changed here; it feels almost like a time machine. The only noticeable difference is around Flatwoods, where new gas stations and fast food joints have popped up due to its easy access from I-79.
Wednesday, June 1
Miles Traveled: 195
What a fantastic ride! Days like this are what we riders live for. The scenery was beautiful, the roads were curvy, the weather was perfect, and there was little traffic. I headed south to Little Birch first and noticed that Grandma and Grandpa’s old house has been renovated with brick—it looked nice. I planned my route more or less on the go, and it worked out perfectly. Most of the roads followed rivers or streams, offering great views. Part of the ride took me along the ridge top in the Monongahela National Forest. I stopped for a hike to view a couple of waterfalls. The experience was scenic and tranquil; it was about three-quarters of a mile each way. The hike was mostly downhill, so the return was quite the workout! I could go on about it, but it wouldn’t do justice to the experience. Here are some photos, though they only capture the image, not the feeling. It was an awesome day from start to finish.
Thursday, June 2
Miles Traveled: 180
Another great day! The roads were even twistier, but more populated with traffic. I encountered lots of 10-15 MPH hairpin turns, which I love. Riding here has been fantastic, but in the morning, it’s off to the Right Half Roundup!
Friday, June 3
Miles Traveled: 400
I made it to Eagle Falls Lodge. It’s a nice place, close to Cumberland Falls. Had a great time seeing everyone and hanging out with my ACE friends again.
This year marks a first for one of our get-togethers: a wedding. Mike and Deb, who divorced after about 15 years of marriage, came together at last year’s RHR to give their relationship another shot. This year, they are getting remarried tomorrow at the falls. Awesome! We had dinner at a fantastic Italian restaurant about 20 miles away. Afterward, we returned to the hotel to hang out until the wee hours…
Saturday, June 4
Miles Traveled: 54
I skipped the group ride due to a tummy ache but went for a little spin through the curves around the area. I bought some strawberries from a kid on the side of the road. I have never had such sweet, juicy strawberries in my life, and I had enough to share. At 1:30 PM, it was time for the wedding, so we all headed down to the falls. It was very cool to have the falls as a backdrop. We had dinner at the Cumberland Falls Lodge, then back to do what we do best—sit around, drink, catch up, and tell stories. Great times!
Sunday, June 5
Miles Traveled: 295
After breakfast at the hotel, I said my goodbyes as everyone pulled out to head home in different directions. Another year is in the books. Next year, we’re headed to Asheville, NC. My planned ride for the day was off to Tennessee to the “Devil’s Triangle.” Unholy mother of Satan, what a road! (Rt 116) It has 200-degree switchbacks, and the uphill sections are just evil—even for me. I rode it three times to be sure it was as terrifying as I remembered…
I came across a warning about this road:
BULLETIN: The Devil’s Triangle is not for the squeamish or beginning riders. There are sections with steep switchbacks, poorly patched asphalt, heaves in the roadway, broken pavement, gravel in the road, steep drop-offs, and coal/logging trucks to dodge. Other than that, it’s a great road. RIDE WITH EXTREME CARE.
In other words, it was awesome.
Monday, June 6
Miles Traveled: About 200
I headed to Cincinnati in the morning, taking my time and chilling as I moved slowly. I noticed my tires were getting pretty worn, fearing they might not last through the trip, but they had too much rubber left to change before leaving. I contacted Western Hills Honda, and they will give my bike some new tires. I arrived around 3 PM and visited with Dad for a bit before Sue arrived. We then headed over to Cathie and Tom’s after dropping off the bike. A large crowd gathered for a great dinner, and it was wonderful to see everyone again.
Tuesday, June 7
Miles Traveled: 10?
I picked up the bike with new front brake pads in addition to the tires. I had lunch at Skyline, then watched an IMAX movie with Nancy, Elizabeth, and Nolan at the old train depot, Union Station, which now houses museums. It was great to see this beautiful building repurposed. We enjoyed a nice dinner at a golf course country club, overlooking the 18th hole. Another great day in Cincinnati!
Wednesday, June 8
Miles Traveled: About 30
I said goodbye to Cathie and Tom and visited with Claude and Margaret (great-great-grandson and great-granddaughter of Sam Houston). It was nice seeing them again; I even got to hold Sam Houston’s walking stick! Then, I headed over to the east side to visit with friends Venita and Jay. I was able to talk to Christa via Skype in Germany. Craig arrived that evening from college at Wright State. He plays on the baseball team, which just returned from playing in College Station, TX. I wish they’d beaten the Aggies, but A&M won. My daughters, Nicole and Kim, were able to meet up with them while they were in TX, which was too cool!
Thursday, June 9
Miles Traveled: 651
Traveled from the Heartland to the Ozarks and stopped for the night in Mountain Home, Arkansas. It was a long ride, taking the interstate from Cincinnati to around Evansville, Indiana, and then transitioning back to back roads. I saw lots of corn along the way! The route took me through Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and Arkansas. The roads hugging the Missouri border, just north of Arkansas, were very scenic and hilly, resembling a roller coaster ride. I dreaded riding late in the evening because of deer, but fortunately, I made it to the hotel without encountering any. I checked in at the Comfort Inn, cranked the AC down, and walked to a loud sports bar for a couple of Shiner beers and a gyro while watching the Mavericks dominate. It was a rare occasion where I found myself rooting for a Dallas team. 🙂
Friday, June 10
Miles Traveled: 632
Headed west to pick up Highway 23, known as the Pig Trail, then traveled southward toward home. I didn’t realize that a small town along the way had been severely affected by a tornado around the same time that Joplin was hit. It was heartbreaking to see the devastation in Etna. Many people appeared to be living in tents and campers while cleaning up and rebuilding their lives. I got stuck behind a truck transporting turkeys (but not for long, LOL). The last few hundred miles in Texas were brutal; it was hot, I was tired, and I was ready to get off this damn bike. I stopped about every hour just to walk around and drink water—must have consumed a gallon! My last stop was at a rest area near Huntsville, which had the nicest facilities anywhere. Inside, I saw a photo of Sam Houston with his walking stick, which I had in my hand just three days ago. 🙂
8:30 PM – Home.
What a great trip! I had a fantastic time, but I’m left with a sore backside and aching shoulders, and neck. Surprisingly, as I revise these notes on Saturday afternoon, I feel pretty good.
Highlights Revisited:
– Spending time with family and friends in Cincinnati
– Reuniting with my RHR/Rat Bastard buddies
– The wedding
– Riding in West Virginia—best day ever!
– The Devil’s Triangle, which was thrilling in its own way
– Experiencing the Ozarks twice
– Choosing to ride mostly secondary roads (80% or more) instead of the interstate
– Finally getting home and picking up Dusty, who was thrilled to be back home with me.
Total miles for the trip: 4,302
Weather: Overall great, although it was very hot at times. I encountered only a few sprinkles of rain on the way home, around the Mississippi River—just enough to momentarily drop the temperatures a few degrees without getting wet.
And as the memories swirled, a soundtrack played in his mind, the artists who had filled my MP3 players and made the long, solitary miles a little less lonely: Hayes Carl, Ha Ha Tonka, The Mekons, Stone Coyotes, Cake, Kings of Leon, Wilco, The Bottle Rockets, Slobberbone, Rodney Crowell, Ray Wylie Hubbard, Del Castillo, Over the Rhine, The Sadies, Maggie Bjorklund, Bob Schneider, Jim White, Alejandro Escovedo, and many more. Each note, each lyric, a companion on this extraordinary journey.
